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When compiling a list of London’s finest dining spots, one might expect well-known Michelin-starred establishments. But, situated high among these food heavyweights is a simple salonu situated in a outlying area of north London.

An Shocking Honour

The small Turkish eatery, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a respected gastronomic guide. The recognition has made the family totally shocked.

“I am utterly surprised,” states the proprietor, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their small restaurant achieving such a lofty spot on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

The little venue, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after food hotspot, has maintained much of its original character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking performance, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” notes the owner.

A Star Offering: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the cuisine, and this establishment definitely excels. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a succulent quality.

The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. When the savoury mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to absorb all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is usually enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, resulting in it a richer, toastier and not overly sweet taste.

Surpassing the Stars

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, comparable experiences at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that price.

A Philosophy of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is most important is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is echoed by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a position of power, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of excess, and to show what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a personal life but her friends would visit to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

An Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is set to have meaning outside its own walls. “In my opinion many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the broader importance of this gastronomic triumph.